Saturday, June 4, 2016

Craig's Travel Journal Day 13: Saturday, May 28

Saturday, May 28

Waking up without an alarm clock was nice, and we made our way to Starbucks for breakfast before walking up the hill to Edinburgh Castle, where we got in line to purchase tickets. 


Laura at Starbucks, Edinburgh Castle on the hill in the background.

The line was so long that as we queued I went online and purchased tickets on my phone, so we got out of line and went to a computer to print our “pre-purchased” tickets.

Our tour through the castle was nice, though the place was absolutely packed. It’s a bank holiday, meaning a three-day weekend, so we aren’t sure if it’s just busy because the summer season is starting soon or if there were more people in town for the weekend. In any case, the weather turned sunny and warm and people were out in force.

















We took many great photos from Edinburgh Castle, some of us and some of the view, and then headed out to find a local restaurant for lunch before having a leisurely walk back to the hotel so Laura could take a nap and I could catch up on email. 




Laura had decided she wanted a kilt skirt and we went searching to non-tourist shops to try to find one, but had no luck. Eventually, I found a place in Scotland that makes them to order and had the color Laura wanted. We can order online when we get home.






It was time for another dinner adventure. A few weeks ago I read been reading a food blog and had come across an article about a new, innovative restaurant in Edinburgh called the Edinburgh Food Studio, run by an upstart new chef focused on foraging. It sounded like the hot ticket in town and I found an email address online and asked if they could fit us in when we were in Scotland. They were able to do so, so we were excited to get a seat at dinner that night.

We arrived by taxi to a slightly sketchy part of town, an old storefront converted to the restaurant. We discovered we were the first to arrive (we go there a little early) and with a little trepidation went in. The chef himself was working on baked goods for dinner at an island in the restaurant when we came in and we chatted for a bit before taking our seats and getting two absolutely delicious cocktails (mine of gin with cucumber fennel soda and Laura’s a vermouth and tonic). Everyone sits at the same time and eats the same thing, a multi-course tasting menu. The staff is small. I think we decided the count was five. By having one menu and making 29 of everything (that’s what the small restaurant seats) it’s easy on the kitchen. But it’s hard on the diners.


The menu.


The chef preps baked items for dinner in the dining room.


The dining room consisted of two long communal tables.


Homemade bread and Scottish butter.


The little wildflower display on the tables were two edible bundles 
to be dipped in the seasoned sauce.





Jacket potato in edible foil.




Housemade goat cheese with honey and vinegar.


Dried wild strawberries and chocolate "dirt."


The chefs scooped housemade ice cream into touille cones...


...then dropped them in the dirt on each plate.


Housemade cookies with sweet cream inside. These were ridiculous. 

Dinner took four hours from arrival to completion, including amuse bouche, and a couple other surprise courses. The price was very reasonable, but the length of time for dinner was wearing, particularly because everyone sat at communal tables and the couple next to us was quite…let’s just call it insufferable.

Some of the dishes were absolutely amazing. Foraged ingredients ranged from edible flowers to morels to seaweed. Dessert was playful and silly: they played ice cream truck music (evidently a staple in the UK as it is in the US) and came out with plates of chocolate “dirt” and other ingredients. They spooned out homemade ice cream into house made cones and then “dropped” the cone into the dirt, as we’ve all experienced in childhood. We used the ingredients on the plate to create a delicate and delicious composition to end the meal.

Laura had been sporting a rather terrible headache that seemed to get worse and worse over the evening. By the time dinner was done she was quite done as well and we hurried to get our check paid and get out to catch a cab.

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